Shoe sewing machine



March 19, 1940. A. R. MORRILL SHOE SEWING momma Original Filed Feb. 9 1935 ll Sheets-Sheet l 31mm or W W t an FM s attorneys March19,1940. A. R: MORRILL I 2,194,365

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March 19, 1940. A. R. MORRILL 5 SHOE SEWING momma Original Filed Feb; 9, 1953 11 Sheets-Sheet 4 v V 3nvintor attorney v March 19, 1940. A; R. .MORRILL SHOE SEWING MACHINE Original Filed Feb. 9, 1933 ll Sheets-Sheet 5 Gttofnegs March 19, 1940. A. R. MORRlLL SHOE SEWING MACHINE Original Filed Feb. 9, 1933 ll Sheets-Sheet 6 Mud! 0- A. R. MORRILL 2,194,365

SHOE SEWINGMACHINE Original Filed Feb. 9, 1953 11 Sheets-Sheet 7 Zinmntor ww zw finm alMguy/wy y i attorncgs I Mai-ch 19, 1940. R. MORRILL 7 2,194,365

SHOE SEWING MAUI-[hi3 Original Filed Feb. 9, 1933 l1 Sheets-Sheet 8 I p x/MM 57 5/ 7 (Ittogneg a 1 I I Sm amtoz March '19, 1940 A. R. MORRILL snon snwme momma Original Filed Feb. 9; 193: 11 Sheets-Sheet 9 ,Gttomegs March 19. 1940. A. R. IMORRILL saon snwme mcuma Original Filed Feb. 9, 1933 11 Sheets-Sheet 10 attorneys March 19,1940, A. R. MORRILL 2,194,365

SHOE SEWING MACHINE v Original Filed Feb. 9, 1933 11- Sheets-Sheet ll Snventor ad 'zW/W Gttomeg:

Patented Mar. 19, 1940 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE 2,194,385 snos snwmc MACHINE Jersey Original application February 9, 1933, Serial No.

Divided and this application November 16, 1937, Serial No. 174,799

18 Claims.

This application is a division of Serial No. 655,934, filed February 9, 1933.

The present invention relates to shoe sewing machines, and more particularly to hook needle sewing machines such as are used for sewing the uppers to the soles of turn shoes or the welts and uppers to the insoles of welt shoes.

The objects of the invention are to simplify.

in an automatic machine for sewing the welt and upper to the insole of a welted shoe, in which the shoe is supported on a jack and the jack is moved with relation to the shoe operating devices, and in which positioning and feeding movements are imparted to the jack and shoe supported thereon to cause the shoe to be presented properly to the operating means as the point of operation is transferred about the shoe. The machine hereinafter described as embodying the several features of the present invention is the machine specifically set forth in applicants co-pending application Serial No. 655,- 934 of which the present application is a division which, as to the general construction and mode of operation -of its various parts is similar to the automatic'welt sewing machine disclosed in applicarit's Patent No. 1,952,770, dated March 27, 1934, and in the patent to Topham and the presen; applicant No. 1,616,714, dated February 8, l9 '7.

While the several features of the present invention are set forth as embodied in an automatic shoe machine, it will be understood that the features are also capable of use in other types of machines in which the shoe' is held in .position by the operator. It is also to be understood that except as defined, in the claims, the several features of the invention are not limited to any particular construction or arrangement of parts. j

The several features of the invention consist in "devices, combinations and arrangement of parts hereinafter described and claimed which, together with the advantages to be obtained thereby, will be readily understood by one skilled in the-art from the followingdescriptiontaken in connection with the accompanying drawings in which Fig. 1 is a view in front elevation of an automatic lasting and welt sewing machine embodying the several features of the present 'Fig. 31s a view in left side elevation of a portion of the machine head, the parts being shown in stop position; Fig. 4 is a sectional plan view of the machine head taken on the line 4-4 of Fig. 3; Fig. 5 is a view of the machine head in front elevation, the parts being shown in stop position; Fig. 6 is a detail view, on an enlarged scale in right side elevation, showing particularly the needle, welt guide and welt cutter actuating mechanisms; Fig. '7 is an enlarged detail view of the needle segment and needle guide, as shown in Fig. 6, but with the cover plate and clamping screw for holding the needle segment and needle guide in position removed; Fig. 8 is a sectional view, taken on the line 8-8 of Fig. 7, with the cover plate and clamping screw in position, as shown in Fig. 6; Fig. 9 is a detail sectional view, taken on the line 9-9 of Fig. 6;

Fig. 10 is a detail sectional view, taken on the line Iii-Ill of Fig. 6; Fig. 11 is a view illustrating the needle and thread finger actuating mechanisms, with the parts shown in the positions assumed during the normal operation of the machine in sewing a seam; Fig. 12 is a detail sectional view, taken on the line l2|2 of Fig. 11;

Fig. 13 is a view similar to Fig. 11 with the parts shown in the position immediately upon throwing the stop mechanism into operation; Fig. 14 is a detail sectional view taken on the line il-ll of Fig. 13; Fig. 15 is a detail sectional view taken on the line I5|5 of Fig. 13; Fig. 16 is a detail view in left side elevation illustrating particularly the thread finger and the thread cutting and holding mechanism, the parts being shown in stop position; Fig. 17 is a plan view of the parts shown in Fig. 16; Fig. 18 is a view similar to Fig. 16, the parts being shown in normal sewing position; Fig. 19 is a plan view of Fig.

18, parts being broken away to show particularly the" positions of the'thread finger and thread ,gripper;-Fig. 20is a view similar to Figs. 16 and 18 with the parts shown in position during the operation of the stop motion to stop the machine; Fig. 21 is a. plan view of Fig. 20, the parts being broken away to show the corresponding positions of the thread finger and gripper; Fig. 22 is a view similar to Figs. 16, 18 and 20 after the thread finger has been actuated to grip and 22, the parts being broken away to show the ,-seve'r the thread; Fig. 23 is a plan view of Fig.

, embodying in a preferred form theseyeral features of the present invention, comprises a sewinghead generally indicated at 58 within which the sewing and side lasting instrumentalities are housed, a shoe supportingjack comprising a toe support 52 and a heel support be pivotally secured thereto, a supporting base 58 within which is housed the supporting and actuating mechanisms for imparting the required feeding, tuming and tipping movements to the jack. and a driving and stopping unit for the machine which is housed in a casing 58 .on the base adjacent to the sewing head 58.

As has been stated, the general construction and mode of operation of the various parts of the illustrated machine are similar to the corresponding parts of the automatic welt sewing machine disclosed in applicants Patent No. 1,952,778, and in the patent to Topham and the present applicant No. 1,616,714. The machine is completely automatic in operation, the shoe being supported on the jack'during the sewing operation, and tipping and rotating movements being imparted to the jack in timed relation to the feed of the shoe so as to maintain the shoe at all times in the proper position with relation to the sewing instrumentalities. At the completion of the sewing operation, the driving mechanism for the cam shaft in the head of the machine and for the pattern cam shaft in the base from which the jack is actuated and controlled is thrown out of operation, and an auxiliary mechanism is thrown into operation which acts to perform certain additional operations including the completion of the rotation of'the pattern cam shaft, the depression and outward movement of the jack away from the sewing instrumentalities, and the reverse rotation of the jack to its original position.

The shoe supporting jack comprising the toe support 52 and the heel support 54 pivotally secured thereto, is supported, actuated and controlled as in the machines of the patents above referred to. At its lower end the jack is mounted by a universal joint on the forward end of a horizontal arm or lever 588 which is pivotally mounted on a support 582 to move in. a vertical plane, which support is pivotally mounted for movements in a substantially horizontal plane on a supporting member 584. The forked lower end of the member 584 carries trunnions 588 arranged to engage with corresponding bearings 588 in the machine frame. The movements of the several members of the Jack are controlled through connections actuated by cams on the pattern cam shaft.

As in the machine of the patents above referred to, the devices of the present machine for operating upon a shoe comprise a curved hooked needle 88, a looper 82, athread finger 64, a thread holder or gripper 88, a channel guide 88, and a welt guide II. In addition to these devices, the present machine also is provided with a side lasting gripper comprising jaws indicated respectively at 12 and I4. Cooperating movements are imparted to these devices for operating on the shoe from a sewing cam shaft 18 (see Fig. 1) which is mounted to rotate on a horizontal axis in hearings in the sewing head 58, and is provided at one end with a spiral gear I8 arranged to mesh the needle guide.

c eeses with a corresponding spiral gear 88 which is vices. To assist in the feeding of the work, the

needle is mounted to reciprocate with the work in the line of feed. With the present construction,the needle 88 is mounted on a support or frame 86 (see Figs. 3, 4, 5 and 24) which extends 'rearwardly of the machine, and is sleeved to turn on a vertical pivot shaft 88. A rearwardly extending arm 88 formed on the hub of the support 86 carries a cam roll 92 which is arranged to engage in a peripheral cam groove in the cam disk 96 on the sewing shaft I8, so that a reciprocating movement is imparted to the support and'the needle mounted thereon in the line of feed in timed relation to the sewing cycle.

As best shown in Figs. 6, "7, and 8, the needle 88 is rigidly-clamped by means of a cover plate 88 and a clamping screw I88 to a needle segment I82 which is loosely sleeved to turn on a stud I84 formed on a plate I86 which is secured to the support 88. A groove I88 is formed in the periphery on the needle segment to engage with a corresponding tongue II8 on the support 88.

The needle is supported by means of a needle guide II2 formed on a hub I14 which is loosely sleeved on the stud I84 and is held in position thereon by means of a coverplate H8 and a clamping screw H8. The needle guide is positively moved towards and from the work through connections with the needle segment comprising a ball I28 mounted in a perforation extending parallel with the axis of needle movement through a radial projection from the hub of the needle guide and arranged to engage alternately locking recesses I2I and I23 formed respectively in the adjacent faces of the needle segment I82 and the cover plate I I6. The forward movement of the needle guide is limited by a fixed stop I24 projecting from the cover plate II6 into the path of a radially extending shoulder on the hub of When the guide is in this position, the recess in the hub of the needle guide is opposite the recess in the cover.plate, while the needle segment continues its forward .movement. The needle-guide remains locked in position by the ball during the retracting stroke of the needle segment until the-recess in the needle segment comes opposite the recess in the hub of the needle guide. At this time a lug on the needle segment engages the radially projecting shoulder of the needle guide and during the continued backward movement of the needle segment the needle guide is also moved backwardly, the ball I28 moving from the recess in the cover plate continued backward movement of the needlesegment and during the first portion -of its forward movement. Oscillating movements are imparted to the segment I82 and needle 88 about the pivot I84 to advance and retract the needle through the work, by means of a cam lever I28 (see Figs.

.3 and 6) pivoted on a rock shaft I28, and connected at its free end by means of a link I88 to the needle segment I82. A cam roll I82 on the cam lever I28 is arranged to engage with a needle actuating cam groove I34 (see Fig. 6) formed in one face of the cam disk 94.

The present machine is provided with means for causing the needle to misloop during the last cycle of the machine upon stopping, so that no thread will be caught on the needle hook and drawn through the work as the needle is retracted to its normal stop position out of engagement with the work. With the present construction, the needle cam lever I26 is mounted on an ,eccentricpivot I36 (see Fig. 6) secured to the rock shaft I28, so that a rocking movement imparted to the rock shaft will vary the position of the pivot, and correspondingly vary the limit of the advancing movement of the needle through the work to prevent thread from beinglaid in the needle hook.

Theshaft I28 is rocked to vary the needle throw upon stopping the machine through connections comprising a rock shaft I38 (see Fig. 2) arranged in line with a short shaft I48 mounted in the frame of the sewing mechanism above and slightly in front of the shaft I28. The stop mechanism of the machine illustrated more particularly in Fig. 2 is similar to that disclosed in the patent to Topham No. 1,791,176, dated February 3, 1931, the shaft I38 beinga portionof the lock bolt carrier of the stop mechanism disclosed in said patent. The shaft I38 is connected to the short shaft I48 by inter-engaging slotted blocks, the arrangement being such that the rocking of the shaft I38 during the operation of the stop motion imparts a corresponding rocking movement to the shaft I40. The shaft I48 is provided with a rearwardly and downwardly extending arm having a gear segment meshing with a corresponding segment secured to the outer end of the shaft I28. During the operation of the stop mechanism, the shaft I48 is rocked in a clockwise direction and is then returned partway to its original position. Through the connections above described a rocking movement first in a counterclockwise direction and then a partial return movement in a clockwise direction is imparted to the shaft I28. The eccentric I36 is thus shifted during thelast stitch forming 'cycle to cause the forward movement of the needle to be shortened to such an extent that the thread is not laid in the needle hook during the operation of the looper, and the needle comes to rest out of engagement with'the work with no thread in its hook.

The looper mechanism of the illustrated machine comprises the looper member 62' rigidly secured to the apex or tip ofa triangular frame I56 (see Figs. 3 and 4) ,which at each of its two rear corners is connected by a universal joint to corespondingactuating cam levers I58. These levers I58 are mounted to turn on a pivot shaft I60, and are providedwith cam rolls I62 arranged to engagerespectively with loam. grooves I64 formed in the outer facesof theoam I66'and I68 (see Figs. 3 and 4). 1 The frame I56 at its forward end is supported yieldingly in sliding contact with a bearing surface I18 by means of two spring-pressed plungers I12 mounted in corresponding recesses in the: machine. frame, and arranged to engage with'and exert an upward pressure respectively-011* the two arms of the frame I56 intermediate their lengths; -The operation of the actuating cam levers I58 is timed to move the forward end of the sliding The thread finger 64(see Figso3 to 5 inclusive, and 16 to 23 inclusive) comprises 'a'lever arm. mounted at its upper end on a pivot stud I'I4 to swing in a vertical plane, and is connected through a link I16 to the upper end of a lever arm I88 sleeved on a pivot stud I82. Formed on the hub of the lever I is a gear tooth segment I84 arranged to mesh with a corresponding gear segment I86 on one end of a rock shaft I88 journaled in a bearing I90 in the machine frame (see Fig. 12), and provided at 'its other end with an upwardly extendingcam lever I92. A cam roll I94 carried on the lever I92 is arranged to engage a cam groove formed in one face of the cam disk I68.

Mechanismis provided which is arranged upon stopping the machine to impart to the thread finger 64 an abnormal movement to bring the thread finger into engagement with a thread gripper 66 to grip the thread, and thereafter through the continued movement of the thread finger, to cause a thread cutting knife to advance and sever the thread. The thread finger and gripper are then partially retracted to perm't the return of the knife to inoperative position while the thread remains held between the gripper and thread finger preparatory to the beginning of a new stitching operation. The thread gripper 66 (see Figs. 3 and 16 to 23) comprises a lever arm which is pivotally mounted on the stud I14 to swing in a vertical plane, and is forced yieldingly toward the thread finger by means of a spring I96 attached at one end to the gripper lever, and at its other end to the ma- The movement of the gripper 66 per to cut the thread is indicated at 200, and is formed on the lower end of an arcuate-shaped lever 202 (see Fig. 3) which is pivotally mounted intermediate its length to turn about a pivot 204 on the needle support 86, and at its upper endis provided with an offset nib 206 which extends into. the path of movement of the gripper member 66. A tension spring 208 connected at one end to the arcuate-shaped lever 202 and at its other end to the needle support, tends to maintain the cutter in its retracted or inoperative position. 1

' During-the operation of the machine in sewing a seam, the thread finger, during each stitch forming cycle,engages the thread between the looper and the work, and draws aside a bight of a work;- Upon actuation of the thread cutter lever I 202 by the continued movement of the thread finger, and of the gripper-lever 66, the cutting knife 200. engages the leg of the :bight extending from the thread finger to the workand severs the thread, and upon the partial return movement of the. thread finger thecutter lever 202. with the knife 280 is permitted to return to its original position while the end of the thread leading to the looper and to the supply is retained by the thread finger and gripper lever. I

The. construction above described constitutes a simple and efficient mechanism for controlling sequence become cemented together while the machine is idle and offer considerable resistance to movement when themachine is again started. With the construction above described, there is no necessity of thoroughly cleaning the parts before starting the machine in order to avoid breakage or injury as is the case with prior constructions. In the construction above described relatively small thread engaging and contacting surfaces are provided between the gripper and thread finger, and these surfaces have operative movement directly away from each other so that a relatively small amount of force is required to separate these surfaces in starting the machine, and danger of injury to the machine-on ac- 25,count of the sticking together of these parts is eliminated.

. In order to impart the required abnormal movements to the thread finger in stopping and in starting the machine to cut and grip the severed 80 end of the thread, and to hold this end during the formation of the first stitch of the new operation, two separate cam grooves 218 and H2 (see Figs. 11 to 13 inclusive) are provided for the actuation of the thread finger cam lever I92, and

a switch cam 2I4 which is similar in its general construction and mode of operation to that shown in the applicant's Patent No. 1,952,770. The switch cam 2I4, as in the application referred to, is arranged during the sewing operation to main- 4 tain the cam roll I94 in the inner cam path or groove 2 I2. Upon stopping the machine, the cam lever I92 is moved positively to the left in timed relation to the rotation of the cam shaft I6 to swing the switch cam 2 I4 about its pivot 2 I 6, and

move the cam roll I94 into the outer groove or path 2I0. The mechanism through which this operation is carried out comprises a lever arm 2 I8 loosely hung on the rock shaft I88, and connected through a link 228 with ana'rin'222 on the rock shaft I28. Anabutment 224 on the lever arm 2I8 is arranged upon the rocking of the shaft I28 by the operation of the lock bolt carrier as above described in stopping the machine, to engage with an abutment 225 on the hub of the cam lever I82 to positively move the cam lever and roll I84 outwardly into the groove 2I8.

The thread take-up of the present machine, as

best shown in Figs. 3 and 5, comprises a lever arm 226 which is pivoted on a shaft 228 on the ma- 5 chine frame, and is provided at its outer end with a'guiding roll23ll. The thread coming from the supply passes over a stationary roll 232, around a stationary roll 234, over the roll 238, and from there to the looper member 62. Atits inner end 5 the take-up lever 226 is provided with a cam roll 238 which is arranged to engage with a cam surface 238 formed in one face of the cam disk 94. .A spring 248 coiled about the pivot shaft 228 and secured at one end to the take-up lever arm 226 tends to move the outer end of. the take-up lever upwardly to tension the thread.

The shape of the cam surface 238 is such that the take-up is actuated positively to set the stitch and draw thread for the next stitch through the 15 tension. At all other times the take-up is supareas ported by the spring 246 and exerts a yielding tension 'on the thread during the action'of the thread finger and looper in threading the needle and during the backward strokeof the needle in tightening the stitch. Overthrow of the take-up lever while being positively actuated to set the stitch and draw thread from the tension is prevented by the engagenient of the roll 236 on the take-up lever with a raised portion of a cam surface 242 which is complementary to the cam surface 288 above referred to.

A novel and improved thread break stop is controlled by the take-up lever 226, and is rendered operative upon breaking of the thread to stop the machine. This mechanismcomprises a vertically situated lever 244 (see Fig. 3) pivoted at- 245 on the machine frame, and at its lower end arranged to engage with one arm of a lever 246 (see Fig. 4) which lever is one of a series through which motion, of the lever 244 is transmitted to the lever,24| of thestop mechanism illustrated in Fig. 2. At its upper end the lever 244 has pivotally secured thereto, an arm 248 which intermediate its length carries a cam roll 266 arranged to engage a cam 252 on the cam shaft I6, and is arranged to extend into the path of a latch 254 formed on the rear end of the take-up lever 226. The arm 248 is pressed yieldingly to the right, as shown in Fig. 3, to maintain the roll 258 in'engagement with the cam 252 by means of a compression spring 256 which is coiled about a rod 258 pivotally secured at its inner .end to the arm 248 and at its outer end arranged to slide in a bearing 268. During the normal operation of the machine, the lever 244 will be maintained in the position shown in Fig. 3, and an idle oscillatory movement will be imparted to the arm 248 in timed relation to the rotation of the cam shaft 16 through the action of the spring 256 and rod 258. When the thread breaks duringthe operation of the machine, the take-up lever 226 is permitted to move about its pivot 228 by the pressure of the spring 240 to bring the cam roll 236 into engagement with the inner cam surface 242, so that as the roll moves onto the low portion of the cam, the latch 254 will fall behind the tip of the arm 248. With the continued rotation of the cam shaft I6, the roll 250 on the arm 248 will ride onto the high portion of its cam, causing the arm 248 to be turned about the latch 254 as a pivot,

so that the lever 244 is moved about its pivot to.

throw the stop motion into operation.

Inasmuch as the take-up lever 226is maintained in position against thepressure of the spring! only by the thread, it is desirable to provide means for preventing the engagement of the latch 254 with the threadstop mechanism in starting the machine, where for instance, the sewing operation is begun with a new length of thread which is not .held in position by the thread gripper.

For this purpose an abutment indicated at 262 in Fig. 3, is formed on the take-up lever 226, and is arranged to project into the path of a nub 264 on the thread finger actuating lever I92 while travelling in its outer groove 2I8. The movement of the thread finger cam lever [92 into its normal operating position under the influence of the switch cam '2 after the end of the first revolution of the camshaft in starting the machine causes the nub 264 to move out of the path of the abutment 262 on the take-up lever'226.

To permit the cam shaft of the 'machine to be turned over by hand or, the machine to be run, regardless of whether the machineis properly threaded 'or is without thread, means are manently out of operation. As illustrated, this means comprises a manually operable lever 2 (see Figs. 3 and 4) pivotally mounted on the frame of the machine and provided with a slot through which the outer end of the rod 258 passes. The lever 26| is interposed between the bearing 260 for the rod 258 and nuts 263 on the other end of the rod, and is provided with an inclined cam surface 265, so arranged that a movement of the lever 26! upwardly from the position illustrated in Figs. 3 and 4 forces the rod 258 to the rear and withdraws the roll from the cam .252.

The nature and scope of the present'invention having been indicated anda machine embodying the several features of the invention having been specifically described, what is claimed is:

l. A sewing machinehaving, in combination, stitch forming devices including a hook needle, a looper, a thread finger pivoted for oscillatory movements to cooperate with the looper and needle in the formation of a stitch, a thread gripper I member pivoted to cooperate with the finger to grip the thread, a thread cutting knife, and mechanism acting when rendered operative-to impart an abnormal movement to the thread finger to engage the'thread between the finger and the gripper member, and thereafter to render the knife operative to cut the thread. I

2. A sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a hook needle, a looper, a thread finger pivoted for oscillatory movements to cooperate with the looper and needle in ,the formation of a stitch, a thread gripper member pivoted to cooperate with the finger to grip the thread, a thread. cutting knife, and mechanism rendered operative upon stopping the'machine to impart an abnormal movement to the thread finger toengage the thread between the finger and the gripper member, and thereafter to actuate the knife to sever the thread.

3. A sewing machine having, incombination, stitch forming devices including a hook needle, a looper, a thread finger pivoted for oscillatory movement to cooperate with the looper and needie in the formation of a stitch, a thread gripper member pivoted to cooperate with the finger to grip the thread, a thread cutting knife, means acting normally to hold the knife in a retracted position, and mechanism rendered operative upon stopping the machine to impartan abnormal movement to the thread finger to engage the thread'between the finger and the gripper member and to advance the knife to sever the thread.

4. A sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a hook needle, a looper, a thread finger pivoted for oscillatory movements to cooperate with the looper and needle in the formation of a stitch, a thread gripper member pivoted to cooperate with the finger, means tending yieldingly to advance the gripper member, a stop for positively limiting said movement of the'gripper member to hold the gripper member normally out of the path of the finger, and mechanism rendered operative upon stopping the machine to impart an abnormal movement to the thread finger to engage the thread between the finger and the gripper member;

5. A sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a hook needle, a looper, a thread finger pivoted for oscillatory movements to cooperate with the looper and needle in the formation of a stitch, a thread gripper member pivoted to cooperate with the finger to grip the thread, a thread cutting knife, a movable support for the knife, and mechanismrendered operative upon stopping the machine to impart an abnormal movement to the thread finger to engage the thread between the" finger and the gripper member, and through the continued movement of the finger and gripper member to advance the knife support to sever the thread.

6.. A sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a hook needle, a looper and' a thread finger acting to draw aside a bight of thread between the work'and the looper, a thread gripper member, a movable thread cutter, mechanism acting when rendered operative to impart an abnormal movement to the thread finger to grip the thread against the thread gripper member, and means for moving the thread cutter to cut the leg of said bight extending from the thread finger to the work.

, 7. A sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a hook needle, a looper and a thread finger acting to draw aside a bight of thread between the work and the looper, a thread gripper member, mechanism acting when rendered operative to impart an abnormal movement to the thread finger to grip the thread against the thread gripper member, a movable thread cutter arranged to cut the leg of said bight extending from the thread finger to the work, and means for advancing the thread cutter to cut the thread and to retract thethread cutter while the thread remains gripped.

8. A sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a hook needle, a looper and a thread finger acting to draw aside a bight of thread between the work and the loop-' er, a movable thread gripper member, mecha-v nism acting when rendered operative to impart an abnormal movement to the thread finger to .grip the thread against the thread'gripping member and then move thc gripping member, and a movable thread cutter arranged to be actuated by the movement of said gripper member to cut the leg of said bight extending from the thread finger to the work.

9. A machine for operating on shoes having, in'

combination, stitch forming devices including a hook needle, a looper, a take-up lever, a cam for actuating the take-up lever to set the stitch, spring means urging the take-up lever in a direction to exert a yielding tension on the thread during each stitch forming cycle, a catch on the take-up lever, a 'trip member arranged upon movement of the take-up lever under the influence of said spring means upon breakage of the thread to be engaged by said catch, and mech anism rendered operative by the engagement of 'in combination, stitch forming devices including tlliliia'ncatch with the trip member to stop the mac e.

10. A machine for operating on shoes having,

a hook needle, a looper, a take-up lever, a'cam for actuating the take-up lever to set the stitch,- means cooperating with the cam to prevent over-,

operative by engagement of the catch with the trip member to stop the machine.

11. A machine for operating on shoes having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a hook needle, a looper, a take-up lever, a cam for actuating the take-up lever to set the stitch, spring means urging the take-up lever in a direction to exert a yielding-tension on the thread during each stitch forming cycle, a catch on the take-up lever, a trip member arranged upon movement 01' the take-up leverunder the influence of said spring means upon breakage of the thread to be engaged by said catch, mechanism rendered operative by the engagement of the catch with the trip member to stop the machine, and means operative at the start of a seam for preventing engagement of the trip member by the catch.

12. A .machine for operating on shoes having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a hook needle, a looper, a take-up lever, a camfor actuating the take-up lever to set the stitch, spring means urging the take-up lever in a. direction to exert a yielding tension on the thread during each stitch forming cycle, a catch on the take-up lever, a trip member arranged upon movement of the take-up lever under the influence of said spring means upon breakage of the thread to be engaged by said catch, mechanism rendered operative by the engagement of the catch with the trip member to stop the machine,

and means operative at the start of a seam to prevent movement of the take-up lever suflicient to cause the trip member to be engaged by the catch. 1

13. A machine for operating on shoes having,

in combination, stitch forming devices including a hook needle, a looper, a take-up lever, a cam acting on the. take-up lever for actuating the take-up lever positively to set the stitch, spring means urging the take-up lever in a direction to exert a yielding tension on the thread during each stitch forming cycle, and mechanism for stopping the machine rendered operative by the movement of the take-up lever under the influenceof said spring means upon breakage of the thread.

14. A machine for operating on shoes having in combination, stitch forming devices including a hook needle, a looper, a take-up lever, a cam for actuating the take-up lever to set the stitch, spring means urging the take-up lever in a direction to exert a yielding tension on the thread during each stitch forming cycle, mechanism for stopping the machine rendered operative by the movement of the take-up lever underv theinfluence of said spring means upon breakage of the thread, and means operative at the start of the seam to prevent movement of'the' take-up lever under the influence of the said spring.

15. A machine for operating on shoes having, in'combination, stitch forming devices including a hook needle, a looper, a take-up lever, a cam acting on the take-up lever for actuating the take-up lever positively to set the stitch, spring means urging the take-up lever in a direction to exert a yielding tension on the thread during each stitch forming cycle, mechanism for stopping the machine, connections for throwing said stopping mechanism into operation rendered operative by movement of the take-up lever under the influence of said spring means upon breakage oi the thread, and means for locking said connections permanently out gt operation.

16'. A machine for operait'ng on shoes having, in combination, stitch, forming devices including a hook needle, a looper, a take-up lever, a cam for actuating-the take-up lever to set the stitch, means cooperating with the cam to prevent over throw of the take-up lever while the stitch is being. set, spring means urging the take-up lever in a direction to exert a yielding tension on the thread during each stitch forming cycle, mechanism for stopping the machine, connections for breakage of the thread to engagewith and vary the motion of said trip member to stop the machine.

17. A machine for operating on shoes having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a hook needle, a looper, a'take-up lever,- a cam for actuating the take-up lever to set the stitch, spring means urging thev take-up lever in a direction to exert a yielding tension on the thread during each stitch forming cycle, a catch on the take-up lever, and a trip mechanism rendered operative to stop the machine upon breakage of the thread comprising an actuating lever, a trip lever mounted thereon arranged upon breaking of the thread to be engaged by said catch, a cam for oscillating the trip member in timed relation to the operation of the machine, and a'cam roll on the trip member intermediate itslength arranged upon engagement of the catch with the trip member to move the trip lever about the I point of contact with the catch as a fulcrum to 'needleguide parallel to said axis, recesses in the needle carrier and plate to receive the ball and lock the needle'guide alternately to the needle carrier and plate, and means for causing the ball to lock the needle guide to the plate during the latter portion of the work piercing stroke and first portion of the retractingjstroke of the needle and to lock the needle guide to the needle carrier during the latter portion of the retracting stroke and first portion of the work piercing stroke of the needle.

- ALFRED R. MORRILL. 

